In the past, the costume was the main hallmark by which people understood what area a person was from and what kind of person he or she was. These colorful Bulgarian clothes were used not just as clothing, but as motifs that were passed down from generation to generation. According to beliefs, the carrier had power and power, it even had the ability to merge into one with its holder. The costume was as sacred as the earth, the temple, and the hearth. It is directly related to the traditions, lifestyle and culture of the Bulgarian people. Ethnographers believe that this garment is of Slavic origin, but elements and motifs of Thracians and Proto-Bulgarians are discovered. Traditional Bulgarian clothing was usually made at home by women. The materials that can be used are linen, hemp, wool, silk and cotton. The tsarvulas and the cap have elements of skin.
National clothing has been known since the Renaissance until the mid-20th century. Despite all that the Bulgarian people have experienced, the development of the traditional costume continues to this day. In addition to seeing beautiful sewing pieces in many of our museum collections or folklore shows, today they are also an inspiration to many fashion designers. Weddings in which the newlyweds enliven the Bulgarian spirit and culture with the choice of traditional clothing are becoming more common. The combination of rich color, decoration and ornamentation is an inexhaustible source of ideas for diversifying contemporary clothing.
By their geographical location, the Bulgarian folk costumes are divided into:
• Dobrudzha;
• Pirinska;
• Northerner;
• Rhodopes;
• Strandzha;
• Thracian;
• Shopska.
In addition, they can be male and female costumes. Women are distinguished by one-apron, two-apron, cloth and sai. The males are pale and black.
Pirin folk clothing is rich in decorations, embroidery and traditional folklore garments and braids. Pirin was considered one of the fearsome mountains, so this image comes to life in the production of traditional clothes. Usually they consist of a top - a shirt also called a "cloak", a belt of wool, an apron, a towel, patterned socks and many ornaments. The colors that predominate in the clothing are red and white.
The female costume in the Pirin ethnographic region refers to the type of saichi. Includes a shirt that looks like a tunic, soot, belt and apron. The shirt is long and straight cut. The soot can be made of wool or cotton. The predominant colors are white, black, blue and dark green. The decoration is usually located around the groove or the end of the sleeves. The elements that are characteristic of the wear of this region are the red wool belt and the long narrow apron. The one-apron costume is the hallmark of the Pirin girl. It is complemented by a multitude of colorful motifs, head jewelry, waist wraps, pendants and other ornaments. The women's hair is tucked away under a cloth tied low behind the ears. The outfit is finished with thick colored socks and worms.
Male Pirin costume
The male Pirin costume is characterized by being lighter than the female. This provides easier and more agile movements for their owners. In the Pirin folklore region, the male costume belongs to the white hair. This type is characterized by the narrow legs, which are tightly adhered to the top. They are also called "Benevers" or "Cheshire". They are usually white in color. The upper men's clothing is wider and longer. Some of the shirts can reach below the knees. The belt is red in color and tucked around the waist. In some cases, it can be tightened using a strap. The vest worn over the shirt meets either the sleeves up to the elbows or the sleeves. It is also called jamadan. Men's clothing is complemented by socks, worms and a black cap.
The costume is clothing that is closely related to folk songs and dances. They are usually dynamic and playful. It is sung in unison, double tune and mixed, as a tribute to Pirin region is two-tune singing. There are many curves and hiccups. The songs praise the heroism of Bulgarian girls and heroes.
The dances are divided into male, female and mixed. Because of the heavier costumes, women's dances are slower and at a moderate pace. Males, on the other hand, are full of movement, dynamics, squats and spins.
The Bulgarian costume is like a historical monument, stored in the old cabinets. Just as the Pirin song has remained eternal and continues to announce the scenes at different corners, so the wearer has been fascinated by its rich embroidered and gaiten decoration for centuries.